Edmonton Electrician | Kitchen Renovation Part 1

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Welcome to today’s edition of your Edmonton electrician. This is where we bring customer service back to the trades. I’m Ryan with Hauer Power electrical. And today we want to talk about some kitchen renovations. So if you’re doing a kitchen rental, you’re going to need an electrician, you’re going to need a plumber, you’re going to need flooring, you’re going to need a likely a drywall patch guy.

You’re going to need a whole bunch of different trades. But, uh, here at Hauer Power electrical, we do just electrical. We just stick to the wiring cause that’s what we’re good at as your professional Edmonton electrician. We’re here to talk today about some of the common misconceptions and a lot of the things that get missed when it comes to renovating your kitchen. So, we’ll start off with the wiring as well as the circuit requirements that kind of come with kitchen renos.

We’ll dive in a little bit more deeper as to what you need, what you want to watch for, maybe what you want to prepare for in the future. And some other little tidbits to remember. So the biggest thing to remember about a kitchen Reno is it’s, it’s the biggest value that you can add to a home.

Now with that said, a kitchen Reno is also the most expensive renovation you can do to your home. And a big part of that is the electrical. You’re gonna spend a whole lot on appliances, on your dishwasher. You’re going to spend a lot on your fridge, you’re going to spend a lot on your stove. But at the end of the day, if you don’t spend a lot on your electrical, you’re probably gonna want to change things later and that’s going to get even more expensive. So once your walls are down, just studs up your framings up.

If you’re going with a fresh install like that, a full gut, that’s the easiest way to do it. That’s the easiest way for us to run our wires. And when you start clean, it looks clean in the end, you can usually tell. So when we go, uh, here in Edmonton, when we go to someone’s kitchen and they have us do their walkthrough, we look at a few vital things.

We look at what is existing in your kitchen? Do you have a 14 gauge wire? Do you have GFI outlets? Do you have split circuits? How many outlets are there? Do you need additional outlets? That’s like 10 out of 10. You always need additional outlets because if you are renovating your kitchen, the chances are pretty good that you didn’t renovate it during this electrical code cycle as your Edmonton electrician, we always see that the new kitchen, reno’s are while they’re there are new kitchen renos.

So they’re going to need to go and abide by the new kitchen electrical codes, which there is a lot of them. They’re very sticky. And if you don’t do it the right way, then you’re either going to fail inspection on your final inspection or if you do fail, hopefully you fail on your rough in inspection before the drywall’s up. When you hire your electrical contractor, make sure that they know because a lot of them maybe don’t do residential the time.

Make sure that they know that there’s two stages to their permit process. It doesn’t really matter where you go, whether you’re in Fort Saskatchewan, whether you’re doing electrical and Saint Albert, whether you’re here in Edmonton, whether you’re out in Stony plain, most inspections are always going to be a two stage for residential over 500 and that’s what your kitchen righto is going to be. So your rough in is going to entail all the bonding and grounding as well as all the wiring and the boxes.

Rough in is when there’s just studs boxes, wiring. You might have your plumbing there done yet. That doesn’t matter. The rough in electrical inspector is just going to look at your electrical rough and he’s going to make sure it’s wired right. Well he’s going to have a look at it quick and see if anything jumps out at him.

Basically he’s not liable if something isn’t what isn’t right. At the end of the day, your electrical contractor is the one whose name is on the line and they are the one who they have to do it right. If your house does burn down, just cause it got inspected does not mean it’s the city’s responsibility.

It says right on the permit that the city inspectors and the city of Edmonton or whatever County you might be in there and ought to be held liable for any circumstances. The electrician doing the work, they’re the ones who are liable at the end of the day.

And that’s why you want to make sure that you hire a contractor, a qualified electrical contractor, and not some Joe blow off of Kijiji or Craigslist or something, something of that sort where they might not have insurance. At the end of the day, if your house burns down, you’re going to have to sue someone and if it burns down from electrical, you’re going to have to Sue either your electrician or whoever did that work.

And if you didn’t have someone do it, then your insurance is typically null and void and you can’t get anything back from it. So make sure they have insurance too. Cause if you try to get the money from them and it’s just a Joe blow guy, chances are pretty good. You’re both going to be up to your neck and high water. So make it easy on yourself. Hire a professional electrical contractor. Here at Howard power electrical.

We have insurance, we have WCB, we have core certification we’re set and ready to go to work for you. Let us tackle your project. But uh, getting back to kitchen there. If you want to know more about the codes, there’s a whole bunch of different circuits you’re going to have right off the bat.

Your fridge, that’s going to need its own dedicated circuit. It doesn’t have to be 20 app, it doesn’t have to be 12 gauge. You can run 14 gauge with a 15 amp breaker, but nothing else can be on that circuit. That’s your fridge. Then you have your stove. That’s pretty simple. You’re going to have the whatever gauge wire you want and whatever size breaker you want, depending on your stove. If you have a gas stove, you’re going to run a 14 gauge. You’re going to run a 15 app. If you do want to prepare for the future, it’s always good to just keep everything coming into your kitchen at 12 gauge wire.

If you keep everything in your kitchen at 12 gauge wire, then your chances are are much better off where if you have to change something down the road, or maybe maybe your inspection, the inspector catches something that you didn’t see and you need to move a circuit then it’s not so hard if everything’s 12 gauge and interchangeable.

But regardless if you have a gas stove that’s going to be on its own circuit, have you had an electrical stove that’s going to be on its own circuit? You’re gonna likely a 40 amp and an eight gauge wire for your electrical stove. I’m sorry. Yeah, eight gauge. Yeah. And then if you have, uh, a dishwasher, typically you would, that’s going to be on its own dedicated circuit. You’re not going to install a GSI receptacle behind that dishwasher because you have to test those receptacles monthly.

And if the GFCI push button is right behind your dishwasher, it’s highly unlikely. No one’s going to do it. No one’s going to move your dishwasher under the way to push that test button on your GSI outlet, so that’s not acceptable. Put it on a GFCI breaker. In addition to that, you’re going to have a microwave. If that’s a dedicated microwave outlet, that’s going to be a dedicated microwave circuit as it should be.

We always recommend, again, 12 gauge wire and a 20 amp circuit that’s going to be a 20 amp circuit breaker. Whatever your panel is, if you have an old federal panel, if you have a Siemens panel, if you have an old ITE panel, which is the old Siemens, they’ve adapted that. If you have Cutler, Eaton, whatever you have, you’re gonna want a 20 amp breaker and a 12 gauge wire for your microwave circuit.

Make that dedicated. Now, if you also are having a hood fan, which most kitchens do, regardless of whether it’s a research violating hood fan or whether it’s a exterior ventilated hood fan, we’ll get into that one more later. Either way, your hood fan, you’re going to want that on its own circuit as well.

Now, a lot of people come into the question of, do I need an arc fault circuit interrupting breaker for my hood fan and do I need an article circuit interrupt breaker for my microwave? Uh, if it’s a dedicated appliance, it’s in section 26 of the code book that if that appliance is dedicated and it’s for that one circuit, then you don’t need the arc fault breaker. Check that yourself. So if the inspector asks you about it, then you can show it to him and you know the code because just watching this video isn’t going to make us liable for or knowing that rule yourself.

In addition to that, that hood fan, if you have a plugin hood fan, now you’re going to need arc fault cause you can plug in anything else into that if that, if that plug is in a cupboard or a cabinet, uh, that would have to be our fault as well. But if it’s a hardwired hood fan, now you don’t need to worry about that. It’s hardwired.

There’s no nasty wearing. You can plug into that. That’s the big reason behind arc fault is everyone plugs in whatever junk they have and in the wall, and we want to see that trip that there is an arc. What else do we have for dedicated circuits? We have your microwave for a dedicated circuit. We’re going to have your hood fan for a dedicated circuit. Your fridge isn’t going to be a dedicated circuit.

Your dishwasher is going to be a dedicated circuit. If you have any stationary appliances, maybe you have a toaster or a blender or a maybe a crockpot or a pressure cooker. If you have these appliances, you already know you’re going to put them somewhere in your kitchen and that that design is already laid out, then you’re gonna want a dedicated circuit for those appliances. Call it one designated area, one designated appliance, and then you’re good to go.

In addition to those dedicated circuits, you, you’re also going to want probably an entire circuit for lighting. You could get away with putting this lighting circuit on something else in your house if you’re going with all led. But typically you’re not allowed more than 12 devices on one circuit and every light counts is a device you can get around that by calculating the load and having that laid out, but regardless, you’re probably going to have at least six pot lights in your kitchen.

You’re probably going to have under cabinet lighting in your kitchen, which is a Oh say have five meters of under cabinet lighting. Typical strip lighting, maybe 3000 Kelvin. That along with your pot lights, maybe it won’t draw a whole lot, but if you have that on a circuit with something else, maybe it’ll trip. Maybe it won’t, but might be better off to just have a whole circuit. So right there you have five circuits.

You got your microwave circuit, you have your hood fan circuit, you have your dishwasher circuit, you have your fridge circuit, and you’re going to have your lighting circuit. So right there doing a kitchen rental before kitchen counter plugs. He got five circuits. This is the biggest room in the house for your electrical draw and as your Edmonton electrician.

We’d always encourage you to either change out your panel service upgrade to have more spots in your panel, or as an alternative option, you can add a sub panel and pony off of your existing panel and maybe just have that sub panel feed, just that kitchen. That way, you know, in the case of an emergency or any sort of power outage, you can go adjust to that sub panel and then you know that everything out of that kitchen is out of that sub panel makes it nice and easy.

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